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	<title>Comments on: Credit Agricole &#8211; Tubular Technique</title>
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	<link>http://www.belgiumkneewarmers.com/2008/03/credit-agricole-tubular-technique.html</link>
	<description>Pro IS PROGRAM GO</description>
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		<title>By: Retro grouch</title>
		<link>http://www.belgiumkneewarmers.com/2008/03/credit-agricole-tubular-technique.html/comment-page-1#comment-12523</link>
		<dc:creator>Retro grouch</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 21 Mar 2008 04:16:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://66.147.244.157/~belgiumk/2008/03/credit-agricole-tubular-technique/#comment-12523</guid>
		<description>Conti 4k&#039;d PITA to say the least here are some tips and tricks for you guys. Get that tire on a ri,m to pre stretch it just like the pros do, think in terms of weeks if you have the luxury ( days will work but not as nice) Once the tire is ready now the gluing can begin thin even coat on a clean rim hang it and let it dry for a day next work a layer of glue into the base tape if it is conti&#039;s do two in a couple hours time. Remember the key difference between a euro pro  job and yours is yours must last a season. The pros must last a few days short cuts for them is fine for you it can be deadly. Prepreation is the key and the base layer are key. Do another layer on the rim and let it sit until it becomes dry  then add another thin coat of glue next go back to the tire and put on a layer. When the glue on the tire is tacky it is time to do the dance as shown in the pictures above. It is far easer to use your weight and strength to push down to stretch the tire on. (currently i have 4 sets of wheels to do with 4k mavic, campy, DA and campy all have to be done on short order it by no means is fun)&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Personally for todays tires I prefer Mastik one better glue, less vapors and bigger tubes nuff said. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Good tires are worth the extra money &amp; time spent enjoy them.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Conti 4k&#8217;d PITA to say the least here are some tips and tricks for you guys. Get that tire on a ri,m to pre stretch it just like the pros do, think in terms of weeks if you have the luxury ( days will work but not as nice) Once the tire is ready now the gluing can begin thin even coat on a clean rim hang it and let it dry for a day next work a layer of glue into the base tape if it is conti&#8217;s do two in a couple hours time. Remember the key difference between a euro pro  job and yours is yours must last a season. The pros must last a few days short cuts for them is fine for you it can be deadly. Prepreation is the key and the base layer are key. Do another layer on the rim and let it sit until it becomes dry  then add another thin coat of glue next go back to the tire and put on a layer. When the glue on the tire is tacky it is time to do the dance as shown in the pictures above. It is far easer to use your weight and strength to push down to stretch the tire on. (currently i have 4 sets of wheels to do with 4k mavic, campy, DA and campy all have to be done on short order it by no means is fun)</p>
<p>Personally for todays tires I prefer Mastik one better glue, less vapors and bigger tubes nuff said. </p>
<p>Good tires are worth the extra money &#038; time spent enjoy them.</p>
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		<title>By: Anonymous</title>
		<link>http://www.belgiumkneewarmers.com/2008/03/credit-agricole-tubular-technique.html/comment-page-1#comment-12521</link>
		<dc:creator>Anonymous</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 21 Mar 2008 00:53:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://66.147.244.157/~belgiumk/2008/03/credit-agricole-tubular-technique/#comment-12521</guid>
		<description>Squirrel; &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;It&#039;s probably not the best practice, but you can definitely use a metal tool to scrape glue off without damaging the rim bed.  Carbon rims, at least the bed to which the tire is glued, are very hard.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Squirrel; </p>
<p>It&#8217;s probably not the best practice, but you can definitely use a metal tool to scrape glue off without damaging the rim bed.  Carbon rims, at least the bed to which the tire is glued, are very hard.</p>
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		<title>By: blue squirrel</title>
		<link>http://www.belgiumkneewarmers.com/2008/03/credit-agricole-tubular-technique.html/comment-page-1#comment-12510</link>
		<dc:creator>blue squirrel</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 20 Mar 2008 07:42:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://66.147.244.157/~belgiumk/2008/03/credit-agricole-tubular-technique/#comment-12510</guid>
		<description>almost forgot, he is working on a carbon rim and yet is using tools that have been traditionally used on alloy rims.  my question for this now adjunct glueing forum, is this.  carbon is a very special material and only performs well for its intended purpose.  i would think that the use of a wire brush and a scraper [albeit custom], would damage and or weaken the carbon fibers.  i was always told to simply use new glue on old glue to soften it up and remove the excess that way.  all the while being careful not to damage or scrap the carbon rim.  and definitely do not use solvents on carbon rims as it will damage the integrity of the carbon / polymer [resin] bond.  so is this just an example of a protour team that has great sponsors and can afford to replace carbon frames / wheels at will or an acceptable maintenance practice.  &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;[as most of your readers probably already know, the dirty little secret of carbon frames / wheels used by protour teams, is that they break and are replaced often, which is a cost prohibitive practice for us mere mortals]</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>almost forgot, he is working on a carbon rim and yet is using tools that have been traditionally used on alloy rims.  my question for this now adjunct glueing forum, is this.  carbon is a very special material and only performs well for its intended purpose.  i would think that the use of a wire brush and a scraper [albeit custom], would damage and or weaken the carbon fibers.  i was always told to simply use new glue on old glue to soften it up and remove the excess that way.  all the while being careful not to damage or scrap the carbon rim.  and definitely do not use solvents on carbon rims as it will damage the integrity of the carbon / polymer [resin] bond.  so is this just an example of a protour team that has great sponsors and can afford to replace carbon frames / wheels at will or an acceptable maintenance practice.  </p>
<p>[as most of your readers probably already know, the dirty little secret of carbon frames / wheels used by protour teams, is that they break and are replaced often, which is a cost prohibitive practice for us mere mortals]</p>
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		<title>By: bikesgonewild</title>
		<link>http://www.belgiumkneewarmers.com/2008/03/credit-agricole-tubular-technique.html/comment-page-1#comment-12507</link>
		<dc:creator>bikesgonewild</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 20 Mar 2008 01:30:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://66.147.244.157/~belgiumk/2008/03/credit-agricole-tubular-technique/#comment-12507</guid>
		<description>...i&#039;m sure these guys are never paid what they&#039;re really worth to a team...&lt;br/&gt;...long days, constant work, little glory...</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>&#8230;i&#8217;m sure these guys are never paid what they&#8217;re really worth to a team&#8230;<br />&#8230;long days, constant work, little glory&#8230;</p>
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